The  Glycolic Acid  It is an active ingredient commonly used by dermatologists for decades to revitalize the skin, reduce the first wrinkles and brighten the complexion. Glycolic acid in high concentrations (between 30 and 70%) is used to perform medical peels, which ensure the elimination of epidermal cells and accelerate their regeneration. At a lower concentration, we can find it in the composition of dermocosmetic creams that exfoliate, regenerate and prepare the skin for peeling.

Advantages of Glycolic Acid

Since Van Scott and Yu's first publication in 1974, AHAs have undergone tremendous development in dermatology and cosmetology. Among the twenty AHAs identified and characterized to date, the most commonly used alpha-hydroxy acid in dermatology is glycolic acid, due to its particular ability to retain water, penetrate the skin and allow facial rejuvenation. It contains the smallest molecule and allows  exfoliate in the softest and deepest way.  

Indeed, glycolic acid has the lowest molecular weight of all the AHAs and therefore can easily pass through the skin. The effective form of glycolic acid is the undissociated acid form.

Mode of action and characteristics of Glycolic Acid

Action on the epidermis:  glycolic acid facilitates the exfoliation of the superficial layers of the stratum corneum of the skin, reducing the cohesion of the corneocytes. The stratum corneum (dead cells) thins and a denser epidermis appears (cells undergoing renewal).

Action on the dermis

The regular practice of glycolic acid peelings induces a stimulation of collagen synthesis. This neocollagenesis is interesting in the treatment of skin aging, since it improves the texture of the skin, reduces wrinkles and allows it to regain firmness. It is a true anti-aging maintenance treatment.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) belong to the class of acid-alcohols. They are natural acids present in many fruits and plants, which is why they are sometimes called fruit acids. AHAs are organic acids that are defined by the presence of a hydroxylated function (-OH) and a carboxylic function (-COOH) located on the same carbon atom, in the alpha position. The molecules of the AHA family differ in the length of their hydrocarbon chains.

Glycolic acid is the shortest form with 2 carbon atoms. Glycolic acid is a colorless, odorless, crystalline solid from sugar cane.